La Parada Market in the District of La Victoria in Lima, Perú
Every time I’m in Perú, I feel like I am visiting my second home, and every time I meet Peruvian immigrants here in the US, I want to engage them as honorary homies. As many times as I’ve been to Lima, Perú, I’ve never been to the District of Callao (pronounced Kah-YOW), which is said to have a large Black community. That is except for the times I’ve inadvertently passed through going to and from the airport. I have several friends from Callao, including Alberto, a black Lima police officer I met in the city's ritzy Miraflores District through a mutual friend. There is a young sister named Monica Carrillo, who has committed her life to empowering young Afro-Peruvian youth. She is also from Callao, and a Facebook friend whom I will be looking forward to meeting personally upon my return to Perú. And one of my favorite Salsa music stars Antonio Cartagena whom I met when he performed in San Francisco years ago is also from Callao.
I recently contacted Mariela, a Facebook friend from Callao who is now living in New Jersey, and explained to her that I wanted to visit Callao’s Black community. I asked her for advice on where to go. She told me that Callao is a dangerous area for tourists, and recommended that I go to Miraflores and Barranco, which are the touristy areas of Lima. Having grown up in the hood myself, I was a little insulted. She doesn’t know that I been to those areas and would prefer to spend my time in areas where I get to see the real citizens and their real lives, and not the overpriced facade presented in Miraflores and Barranco. I am a traveler, not a tourist. There is a huge difference between the two. I explained to her that I received the same warning about another rough area of town, La Victoria, where I rented a room from a family and hung out. I was wasn't even noticed, let alone harmed.
Former Peruvian National Police officer turned Salsa music star Antonio Cartagena was born and raised in Callao.
Just yesterday, at a local Peruvian restaurant here in Oakland, I chatted with Julio, the owner who is also from Callao. He told me the exact same thing Mariela told me, and added that if I should go, not to go alone, but find someone who is willing show me around. I immediately explained my tranquil experience in La Victoria, and although I spent a relatively very short time there, I would have never known that it is a rough area. He then changed his tune as my race entered the picture.
He went on to tell me that, like Callao, La Victoria has a lot of blacks who are respected on the street for being ready to unite and “throw down” (viciously fight back, and not tolerate aggressive behavior from anyone). I recall another Peruvian I met in the US who asked me emphatically, what, you mean nobody messed with you in La Victoria? I said no. He then shook his head and concluded that they probably thought I was familia. The first time I went into La Victoria in a cab; we passed a Mestizo construction worker who grinned at me with excitement and shouted, ¿qué pasó, familia (what’s up, bruh?) The cab driver explained to me that Afro-Peruvians refer to themselves as familia, and looking at my skin color, the construction worker had no clue that I am an international traveler.
He went on to tell me that, like Callao, La Victoria has a lot of blacks who are respected on the street for being ready to unite and “throw down” (viciously fight back, and not tolerate aggressive behavior from anyone). I recall another Peruvian I met in the US who asked me emphatically, what, you mean nobody messed with you in La Victoria? I said no. He then shook his head and concluded that they probably thought I was familia. The first time I went into La Victoria in a cab; we passed a Mestizo construction worker who grinned at me with excitement and shouted, ¿qué pasó, familia (what’s up, bruh?) The cab driver explained to me that Afro-Peruvians refer to themselves as familia, and looking at my skin color, the construction worker had no clue that I am an international traveler.
A product of Callao is Monica “Oru” Carrillo who has dedicated her life to empower Perú's black communities, especially the youth.
However, there was a police officer patrolling on foot who did notice that I am not familia. It was the way I strutted past him with that swagger and bounce in my step that is common among so many African-American males. Our eyes met, and instead of speaking to me in Spanish like everyone else, he blurts out, HOW YA DOIN' MAN?! I just burst out laughing as I acknowledged him and kept stepping. That is something I might expect in Miraflores, but not in La Victoria.
I have to admit that I've been blessed to go into these communities and come out unscathed. Every Peruvian I talk to about my ventures into La Victoria tell me that I've either been lucky or that my skin color protected me. They just don't know that before every trip, I pray and get prayed for. However, the next time I'm in Perú, I want to take Julio's advice, and that is to go into Callao with someone who is from there. Someone like Alberto, the Lima police officer.
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